High, low, high, low….it’s off to India I go.
Not even 10 days back from my nonprofit trip to Peru, and I was getting the summer travel shakes. I had 3 weeks to spare before I had to be back in Florida for a wedding, and I was frantically figuring out where to fly to next.
Let’s see…maybe Seattle? I’d been pining for another Pacific Northwest summer since I lived there in 2019. Or maybe, Stockholm? I’ve heard Scandinavian summers are a delight!
Or…
Bubbling on the backburner, like a spicy masala chai, was the Indian option. Indeed, my dear friend Rebecca was tucked away in a yoga ashram in Southern India for the summer, and that was a good enough reason to go.
Except…
I was terrified.
Now, as a well-traveled lady, I know better not to let the ill-informed stereotypes of a place deter me from experiencing it myself. But I couldn’t help but feel anxious about the chaos and poverty I’d potentially face.
India wasn’t exactly the delightful summer destination I was looking for.
But, I leaned in and panic purchased the plane ticket.
72-hours later, I landed in Delhi.
And here’s what happened…
The Highs and the Lows
A quick stopover in the UAE to visit my friend James (and to check off Dubai from my “weird, fabricated cities in the middle of the Middle East that I’ll never go back to” list) and I was back on a plane for the final stretch of my journey.
Now, if only I could find my driver…
To calm my nerves and make my solo blitz to the Taj Mahal as comfortable as possible, I decided to throw all my money at the situation and hire all the people. And along the way, I encountered some surprising highs and some unsurprising lows.
My driver safely drove me the 5 hours from Delhi to Agra (high), only to see whole families sleeping dangerously close to the road (low), as the gilded gates of my 5 star hotel opened to reveal marble and gold and white-gloved attendants as far as the eye could see (high). The 8,497 mile journey (and post-colonial guilt) had me utterly exhausted (low), and I was sound asleep by 8:00 pm (high).
The next morning, at the crack of an Indian dawn, my alarm screamed at me to wake up and look alive! I had to beat the crowds to the Taj, and my guide was waiting in the lobby.
The early morning wake-up call paid off. The Taj Mahal was a masterpiece monument that rightly deserves its place in The 7 Wonders of the World list. And bonus! My guide, Imran, was not only my spiritual Taj Mahal guru, but also an exceptional photographer (high, high, high!) And, despite the fact that I was bamboozled into buying a tiny, $120 marble elephant after the master salesman insisted it would bring me true love (low, but maybe high?), and my mad dash through th Delhi airport to catch my next flight to the ashram (low), I was left bedazzled by the day (the highest).
Alright, India. You’ve got my attention. Let’s see what else you’ve got.
The Ashram
I arrived in Varkala in the middle of the night, and, in the middle of a typhoon-level downpour. And I still had an hour drive to the ashram. This should be interesting.
Peering out the rain-soaked window, I kept seeing rather peculiar structures. Enormous Jesus statues atop gaudy, makeshift churches. They were everywhere! In a Hindu-dominant country, there wasn’t a temple in sight. Noted. I will have to investigate this Christian curiosity later.
When we pulled up to the ashram, there was at least two feet of rain to contend with. So, I pulled up my pants, grabbed my bag, and quietly forged up the stairs so as to not wake sleeping beauty. After all, Rebecca was a month into her daily yoga-training regiment that began with 6:00 am meditation. As I took inventory of the very basic accommodation, dried myself off, and slipped into bed, Rebecca rolled over and whispered, “Welcome to the ashram.”
The next morning, Rebecca (having skipped her morning classes) gleefully gave me a local’s tour of Varkala, the hippie beach town perched on top of palm-covered cliffs. As we chatted in her favorite cafe, she filled me in on all the things. The characters she had met at the ashram. The teenage boys that always asked to take pictures with her (if you saw Rebecca, you’d know why), and the unbelievably cheap prices (my breakfast of eggs, toast, fresh juice and masala tea, for example, was $3). This was a welcomed reprieve from the outlandishly high prices of Miami (same breakfast, $40. Easy).
Speaking of reasonable rates, my week-long stay at the ashram, all meals and yoga classes included, cost me $30 USD. Yes. you read that right. A spiritual room with an ocean view, for less than a Miami breakfast. My travel math was mathing. I was saving money by being abroad.
During the week, I decided to indulge in various Eastern wellness practices. This included my first acupuncture experience, performed in the bedroom of an Italian expat whose energy was, well, very off. One star. Do not recommend. And then there was my Indian astrologer who read my birth chart and, through an English translator, declared that I had almost cleared my negative karma (caused by my previous life as a turncoat soldier), and that 40 would be my year- the partner, the child, the inner peace. It was my destiny. I also sat in on some classes at the ashram. From vinyasa, to meditation, to asana philosophy, I was savoring my spiritual surroundings and feeling grateful for my last-minute decision to discover India for myself.
By the end of the week, Rebecca had wrapped up her yoga training and bid her yoga gurus and fellow devotees farewell, and we were off to the next destination.
This time, accomodation wouldn’t be so basic. And Hindu temples would be back in abundance.
The Temple
Earlier this year, I declared 2024 “The Year of Love,” and since then, I have turned my attention to things like hearts and love songs and manifestation workbooks.
So, when Rebecca mentioned the historic Meenakshi Temple, dedicated to the love goddess Meenakshi Amman, I was in. I mean, I’m actively manifesting a man at this point, so why not pray at a Hindu temple of love for good measure?
After a 12-hour overnight train ride (an absolute must do in India), we arrived at our beautiful hotel in Madurai (a far cry from the basic accoutrement of the ashram). We took a moment to take in our 5* surroundings before tuk-tuking to the temple.
On the way, I started to feel moody. Maybe it was the commotion of the streets or my mind, but I couldn’t shake my sorrow.
If I had to guess, I would say 1000 Hindu pilgrims were in line to get a glimpse of our girl Meenakshi and pray for love and prosperity. As non-Hindus, Rebecca and I were forbidden to enter the main shrine, but it meant we got to skip the line. And, the vibrant activities of the rest of the temple gave us more stimuli than we could imagine. There were elders deeply playing in drum circles, women in electrifying saris, swaying and chanting, children hiding and laughing in every corner. Colors on colors on statues on flowers on lotuses on shrines on sanskrit on spirit and on and on.
When the stimuli subsided, I made my way to the steps of the center fountain. It was time to meditate. On love. On life. On whatever decided to surface in that moment.
“Ummm, hey, Meenakshi. Uh. I mean, namaste. Thank you for having me. Your home is lovely. Clearly, I am not Hindu, but hopefully you’re open to listening. Firstly, I’d like to say that I have a good life. A GREAT life. I have everything I need and more. I’m so grateful, everyday. But there’s this pesky love thing. I’m not talking about familial or friendly love, I have an abundance of that. It’s the romantic love. The long-lasting love. The life partner, soulmate kinda love. I’ve experienced that to some degree, but I know that I deserve a partner that…[insert all the qualities written in my manifestation workbook], because I am…[insert all the daily affirmations written in my gratitude journal]. So, yeah. I heard maybe you could help with that. Thank you for listening. Namaste. Byeee.
When I came out of my meditative trance, I left my love sorrow on the steps, then left the temple in higher spirits.
Sometimes, you just have to let go and let the goddess of love clear your karma and guide your way.
The End
This post is getting long, so I’ll spare the specs of the rest of the trip.
Here’s the quickie:
The second half of our Indian adventure consisted of treehouses and tea plantation visits in the mountains of Munnar, and boat rides and spice market splendors in the coastal town of Kochi.
India was magical and chaotic and warm and wonderful. My previous trepidations about visiting were, as expected, unfounded. Yes, there is extreme poverty. Yes, it was uncomfortable at times. But, the country’s diverse and powerful prana (life force) welcomed me with open arms and left me with an open heart chakra.
I only scratched the surface of this sacred place.
So, yeah. I’ll be back, Mother India. After all, I promised Imran, Mr. Elephant Peddler, and Meenakshi that I’d return with my manifested man.
Gotta stay true to my word.